East Vlaanderen - pt 3

Nete river

Every trip has its ups and downs, and today is a big up … so far. I just had a sandwich of pickled herring w/onions on fresh pumpkin seed bread plus summer cherries--all from the Tuesday market in Duffel--sitting in the extraordinarily pleasant Park 's Heerenbeemden, at around 11 am. The park is by the blauwebrug (blue bridge)--which crosses the Nete on the way south.

Heading for the market, Duffel

Luc, host in Boechem

To get here, I followed the instructions of my Vrienden op de Fiets host Luc (in Boechem, outside Lier). Actually he accompanied me to the Nete, where he took off at twice my speed, on his way to see his 93-year old mom in a town 39km away. He says he can do it in 1-1/2 hours. He makes this trip every Tuesday. From there I followed the Nete to Duffel where I crossed the river to the market, bubbly today with lots of old folks. There was a corner café that seemed much more French than anything in Holland.

Then I continued west along the Nete, the path going right through the middle of the river. A beautiful stretch on a beautiful late summer morning. At Walem, I crossed to the north bank, as Luc had instructed (the south bank was closed for construction), then proceeded underneath the N109 to a broad bend in the river and spotted the blue bridge.

On the Nete, from Lier to Mechelen

Bridge over the Dijle

kp 94 ➢ 97 ➢ 57

The blue bridge consisted of two components, crossing over two rivers--the Nete and the Dijle. Then you go over a canal with sluice gate, and, toward kp 97, traverse a wonderful wetlands reserve with lots of birds. You are then routed seamlessly into Mechelen beneath a massive highway interchange, then the yellow silos of a factory and some kind of old port building can be seen on the opposite bank.

Mechelen

Then suddenly you're in the center of the quaint, affluent town of Mechelen, with a vinyl record store and supermarket (Match). Across a metal bridge is the Vismarkt where, following Luc's suggestion, I had a goblet of Gouden Carolus triple (triple has more alcohol than double; triple is light, double dark), brought to me a slim young woman in an orange summer dress. This time I've noticed the Belgian accent. Their Dutch sounds childlike, singsongy with a halting lilt, as if they're speaking a second language. I've also noticed a slight difference in cycling culture. Seems there are a lot more racers here, both male and female, in helmets and lycra. I guess it's the national sport.

Leaving Mechelen...

I had a little tour of the Grote Markt, with some fine gothic buildings, then headed out of town east along the Vaart (to kp 80), taking the south bank. On the map (and according to Luc), I can follow this broad straight waterway all the way to Leuven, and on this hot summer afternoon that's just fine with me.

...coming into Leuven

kp 54 ➢ 77 ➢ 20
The Vaart continues, straight as an arrow, occasionally crossing a road with lots of cars. Then on the way to kp 20, it feels a bit more remote.

This ride is pure bliss, an endless idyll along a broad still canal, whether in the hot sun or the cool shade. Not a ship to be seen but many fietsers. At 7pm, I've reached kp 32, on the outskirts of Leuven. The sluice gate opens creakily at Tildonk, yet I see no ship. Continued ...